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Passap Sock Toe Woe Solution For Too Many Dropped Stitches

I’ve been working on a new pair of Machine Knit Hand Knit socks for Bill. In the past, I’ve made many pairs on a Japanese flat bed machine with ribber, never a Passap. This was my first Duo 80 sock.

All went well until the decreases for the toe refused to knit off both stitches. I didn’t even know I had a problem until I finished and removed the sock from the machine. One of the stitches in a paired decrease would knit cleanly, it’s mate on the same needle would drop. While knitting, all appeared fine when it wasn’t.

On a Japanese machine, if stitches are being stubborn and won’t knit the way you want, you can bring the offending needles out to hold, forcing the stitches behind the latch to insure it will knit cleanly on the next row. I tried bringing the needle forward on the Passap with the two stitches but I then dropped both. I don’t know if the problem was me or wrongly applying a Japanese trick to a Swiss machine.

The picture below shows how I inadvertently dropped decreases on both sides of center. The flip side had several drops as well. They occurred mainly as I approached the end of the toe and was decreasing every round. However, I also had a dropped stitch on the very first round of toe decreases.

Passap sock toe dropped decrease stitches

In doing some research, the Passap can’t bring needles out to hold like Japanese machines. The only equivalent in the Passap world is to use a second set of the four edge springs. Place the extra springs on each set of stitches to be decreased, moving the springs with each round as the stitches to be decrease move in towards the toe. This will help the stitches to knit correctly and not drop. I’ll have to dig out my Pinkie Duomatic edge springs and see if this works.

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May 3, 2007


1 Thomas { 04.24.08 at 10:45 am }

You mention you have created socks on the Japanese flat bed machines with ribber. Do you by chance have a documented pattern for this process? I’d like to find a good solid pattern that creates a nice sock. Thanks!

2 Kathryn { 04.24.08 at 5:18 pm }

The pattern is about halfway written and still needs all the photos. Keep in mind, it is not a beginner pattern. If you have never machine knit a sock, you might want to practice making the traditional short row heel sock. It will allow you to get comfortable with correct sizing for your foot and finishing the toe.

Getting the MKHK Sock Pattern done is at the top of my to do list once everything from the old site makes the transition to WordPress and I am up to date with my blogging life. I’m targeting this summer.

3 Andrea Lakeland { 08.28.08 at 8:05 pm }

I’m so glad to come back here and see you’re still working on the sock pattern for the MKHK sock. I’m eagery waiting. Not being a hand knitter I’ve been finding it a bit tricky to work it out myself 🙂

4 Mark { 09.04.10 at 4:22 pm }

If any one needs a sock pattern or two for either the duo 80 or Brother machines, drop me a line and I’ll provide either my pattern or a link to others. I’ve also come across a tubular fairisle pattern for socks which works really well.
With reference to dropped stitches on the Duo with the toe decreases, simply add claw weights after knitting the rib, before turning into circular knitting and keep them on all the way to the end.
I add an extra weight to the heel but take it off after finishing the heel.

I’ve never had dropped stitches at the toes and haven’t needed extra edge springs.

The one problem you may have is in the decrease itself. Make sure that you pull down on the knitting from below to make sure the stitches pop onto the receiving needles correctly and move the needles back enough to ensure an even tension. If you don’t, this might cause a problem.

Happy socking…..

5 claudia { 09.05.10 at 4:57 pm }

please i used ti it knitt socks before and i forgot can i have some instructions from you please .thanks

6 Kathleen { 06.20.11 at 7:09 am }

Hi Mark, could you forward me some Duo 80 sock knitting patterns please.

Thanks you

7 Colonel Tusker { 10.19.12 at 3:56 pm }

I find the BX setting is incredibly prone to dropping stitches, and am just about ready to give up on socks. I am going to try reaching up under the machine and pulling the heel-bit down by hand, to keep it under tension. Can’t help but feel that I could do socks faster and less error prone with a couple of needles.

Mark, you seem to have some answers. Will try that. I have some cast-on combs, but I shall get myself some claw weights. Many thanks. I can’t get your email address out of this thing, could you send me as many sock patterns as you can please, at michael-j-ryan at


8 for Mark { 12.08.14 at 7:01 am }

Mark do you have any idea as to how many stitches to cast on for a 7 year old socks
i have made many adult socks but not childrens. thank you
as for dropping stitches on the heel i use the black strippers and no weights you need to go slow and it should work out ok, i have a motor but i don’t use it when i’m doing the heel, when doing the toe i have found that i need to make sure that the decreased stitches are staying on the needle sometimes the yarn is a bit heavy or to loose and it will pop off always check to see that the stitches are on before you take the carriage accross. when i’m doing the toe i hang a couple of weights on each end and this helps the stitches to stay on. hope this will help/
thanks Patricia in Nova Scotia















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